Life in Cuba

Currency & MONEY

Cuba used to have a dual currency system with CUC (Cuban convertible Peso for Tourists) and the CUP (Cuban Peso for Cubans for everyday life and salaries). About two years ago they changed the system and removed the CUC, having now CUP as the only currency. Many could think that now things are so much easier - but No!!!

Especially for Cubans it made life even harder and also as a tourist you need quite some background to understand how money matters in Cuba work.

At the same time of the change, the government introduced a new digital currency MLC (Moneda Libremente Convertible), basically the USD, that can be used to buy stuff in Stores and stupermarkets using the newly introduced MLC bank cards. It should be a step in direction to digitalise the economy - I still wonder how they plan to roll it out if internet is still a huge problem on the whole island. (and yes I was standing in stores with no internet-connection and had to wait until it was back again for making card payment - be prepared to wait 30mins or even longer or leave without your shopping)

So far so good, all stores and supermarkets are now only in USD and these new MLC cards can only be charged with USD. But the Cuban salaries are still paid in CUP.

A Cuban average salary is around 2100 CUP (8.75USD) or maybe 3000 CUP (12.50USD) with an academic title. This can be used to buy some basic food every month but no chance at all to charge the MLC card with the expensive USD or buy good stuff (shampoo, soaps, medication, imported food etc.) from the stores.

As a general understanding, 240 CUP is 1.00 EUR.

Average Cuban Salary: 2100 CUP (.8.75USD) / 3000 CUP (12.50USD)

Cuban Pension: 1500 CUP per Person (6.25USD)

Below is a cost overview of some Basic food & goods:

Due to the current bad situation in the whole country and shortage of basically all kind of foods, prices have even doubled recently:

1 Butter: 7.50 USD

1 Pack of Coffee: 26.00 USD

1 Family Pack Chicken: 50.00 USD

1 Cartoon of 30 Eggs: 3300 CUP (13.75USD)

1 Water Tank filling: 1800 CUP (7.50USD)

1 Glass of Honey: 250 CUP (1.00USD)

500g Sugar: 350 CUP (1.45USD)

1 Shampoo: 7.00 USD

1 Soap: 2.00 USD

1 Glass of Tomato Sauce: 4.60 USD

1 Toothbrush: 1.00 USD 1 Toothpaste: 2.10 USD

So yes, from a European perspective some things and activities might still seem cheap, but it is definitely not for Cubans.

In any case bring enough cash in EUR/USD or even CHF to your vacation in Cuba, as at the ATM's you will only get Pesos and there is a limit of around 5'000 Pesos per Withdrawal, which is only around EUR 20.00. You will not get anywhere to get cash from the cashmachine.

Also keep in mind that at the ATM's you will get your cash at the exchange rate of 120 (instead 240), which will make you loose a lot of money.

LIBRETA

Cuba has a rationing system and the libreta is a booklet that each household receives annually.

With the Libreta-Booklet you can only buy food in the so called Bodega-Stores. In these stores Cubans get a monhtly allowance of some specific foods for cheaper prices. However, where in the past there were a lot of products on the libreta-List (like cigars and even clothes) it changed to only basic food (Rice, oil, Beans, Salt, Sugar, 1 Bottle of Rum) and nowadays there are only a few left now due to the bad economic situation (Bread, Eggs). The governemnt only recently announced that they plan to introduce a new libreta-system, in which only the very poor people can benefit from it. (All Cubans are poor - how will the government choose who is entitled to benefit and who not?!)

1 small bread per person per day

5 eggs per person per month

1 Bottle of oil (if availalbe)

500g Rice for one month for one family

Internet

You definitely have to say goodbye to being connected 24h in Cuba.

While places like big hotels and large resorts offer free wifi, there is no wifi in public spaces or restaurants or connecting to it can be a challenge. Cuba is starting to evolve the 4G-connectivity now that Cubans can use on their smartphones, however as a tourist you will not have access to the 4G-network.

Some Casa Particulares nowadays offer wifi in their home (for a fee), but keep in mind that power cuts or in general issues with the connection are not rare. It makes it even more complicated that there are a lot of websites blocked and not available due to sanctions. This includes holiday booking pages (booking.com, AirBnB), certain social media, bank pages and certain other businesses). If you need these services available during your stay, you might want to set-up a VPN.

If you are walking around and find a space like a park where many Cubans are hanging around, you have found a WIFI-Hotspot.

To connect in these places, you still have to buy a scratch-card from Nauta Etecsa. (Cuba's phone and internet provider with the monopoly of all these services)

1hour Card: 125 CUP / 1 USD

You will also find these Cards at Havanna Airport to connect with the Wifi there.

Many Cubans also have a Nauta Etecsa account that they can load with money to connect to the internet. If you have a friend you could borrow also his Nauta Login and give him the money for the connection to load into his account.

Electricity & Power cuts

Power-Cuts are not rare, alone in our last trip we had power-cuts 4 days in a row with 2-4hours either in the morning or evening without any electricity. It is helpful to bring a power bank to charge your phone in such cases. Also you might encounter sleepless nights if the cuts happen during nighttime and no air condition or van will work.

In some cases the government announces the power-cuts and their duration, but it happens a lot that they will change their mind or forget to inform the population. So be prepared and let yourself be surprised on when the next time will be without Internet connection, AC, light, electricity for cooking etc.

Rum

rum is Cuban's national drink and Cubans drink it like water.

it even used to be part of the Libreta-Allowance that every Cuban would receive 1 Litre of Rum per Month for a subsidised price.

They will not mix it with anything but drink it neat and without ice.

You will see it very often that after opening a bottle they spill some rum on the floor, even in closed rooms as the first sip is usually offered to the Santeria God.

Cigars

Cuban's Cigars are considered among the world's finest and are a typical symbol of their culture. Also known under the name "El Habano", the cigar is manufactured from tobacco from one of Cuba's many plantation. They are made with a lot of care and many production steps. Havanna's premier brand, Cohiba, was Fidel Castro's preferred cigar.

Musica & Salsa

Dance and music is life in Cuba. It will make you forget even the most hopeless situation. and if it's one thing that I have learnt in Cuba then it's: Just turn off your head and feel the beats and heats. It's not about how it looks, but just how you feel in that moment and how you let your body express it. You will see the Music will carry you away and it will feel so liberating.

Just get a taste in one of the many bars or discos in Cuba or take a Salsa Lesson (around USD 15.00 per hour).

Language

Cuba's national Language is Spanish. However you might struggle a bit in the first days and weeks even if you have a very well understanding of Spanish, as Cubans have influenced it quite a bit and I would call it the Cuban Spanish. Sometimes it's quite heavy to understand as they have a unique way of expression and are specialists in dropping letters of some words or speak very rapidly and at the same time full of mumbling.

They very often omit the final "s" in words (Como Estas?; Como Esta'?) and a final "r" is often pronounced as "l". (Pinchar; Pinchal / Amor; Amol / Hacer; Hacel )

Some phrases to know (as the translator will not help you):

Qué volá / Qué bolá a greeting phrase, meaning "how are you?" /"what's up?"

Yuma A foreigner

Asere Friend or Dude, only used between men

Descara’o/Descará Someone that doesn't feel shame or acts purely of self-interest

Pesa’o/Pesá Drama-Queen or King, Someone that reacts in a crazy manner

Food & Streetfood

The Cuban cuisine is a very simple one and mostly determined by what is currently available. In any case to get a taste of their traditional dishes, I recommend you to try these dishes:

Ropa Vieja (shredded beef cooked with onions, peppers, olives in a tomato sauce with spices)
Cuban Sandwich (A sandwich with Toast or toasted bread with ham and cheese)
Pescado (Fish fresh from the sea)
Arroz con frijoles (Rice with black beans)
Pollo (Fresh chicken cooked, fried or breaded)
Chicharittas (Green Plantain Chips)
Yuca con Mojito (Manioc with a salsa-dip made of garlic, oil, Salt and a bit of Lemon)
Insalata con tomates y pepinos (Salad from tomatoes and cucumber)
Aguacate (fresh avocado)
Flan (Cuba's traditional dessert)

...and don't forget a glass of rum to give you the extra Cuban taste!

The typical Cuban breakfast contains of fresh fruits, a fresh fruit juice together with a Cuban Coffee and a homemade Omelette.

In the streets of Cuba you will find a lot of small snacks for the hunger in between:

Maiz
Calletas (Crackers, although with almost no taste)
Platano Fritos (plantain Chips)
Mani (peanuts packed in small bags)
Churros

Fruits & Juices

Cuba is well known for its fresh fruits and you will love all the fresh fruit juices on the island:

Guayaba
Platano
Mango
coconut (you can get a fresh coconut at many beaches in Cuba for around 800 Pesos (3 EUR)

Getting around

The best way to get around in Cuba are Taxi Collectivos (shared-taxis).

You can book them as an individual or as a couple and you will share the ride with 1-2 other peopel that are going to the same destination.

Alternatively the blue Viazul buses bring you from Havanna to the biggest cities. However, tickets have to be pre-booked and in many cases there are delays, issues witht he bus, double-bookings etc.

I have heard many stories and definitely prefer the Taxi Collectivo-option.

Vintage Cars

You should definitely enjoy a tour of Havanna from the back seat of a vintage car - and at the same time choose it in your favorite color.

And don't put too much effort into styling your hair beforehand, it will definitely be blown away again by the wind.

Casa Particulares

The best way to explore an authentic cuba and get to know its life and people best, is staying in so called Casa Particulares, private family homes that offer you a room mostly with a separate bathroom with average prices of 20-30 USD per night. In Most places they will also you breakfast or dinner for an additional fee of around 5-10 USD per Meal.

Trust me - you will live like a Cuban!

Casa Particular - Havanna

Fentons The Boutique Casa - A beautifully renovated Colonial Casa Particular in Havana where Alex & Amanda will be your hosts